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Digital Photography Technique => Taking Photos => Topic started by: pdes on February 19, 2006, 09:33:59 PM

Title: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: pdes on February 19, 2006, 09:33:59 PM
Team,

Both my AF lenses claim to be macro-zooms but, in effect, do not allow the sort of close up that I would like for insects etc. What do people use for macro to get the really great spider-eye shots?  Is is end-of-lens adapters or dedicated lenses or tubes? (If you use tubes, can you keep all the AF functions?

Thanks,

David
Title: Re: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: Ronin on February 20, 2006, 07:31:57 AM
This is a very open question as there are so many options and it depends on what (and how) you want to do it. Very few ZOOM lens are true macro (they are only closer focusing than normal). Personally I find the best way it to get good magnification is with a set of bellows and a 50mm lens. But this requires a controlled environment and isn’t good for insect chasing. For bugs you are better off with a 105, 150,180 or 200 mm macro prime lens.
Title: Re: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: ISO3200 on February 20, 2006, 04:40:58 PM
Ronin wrapped that up nicely.
Title: Re: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: Clive on February 20, 2006, 07:36:15 PM
To add... Three things sum this up
1) preferred lens...100-mm macro works well
2) good light
3) TRIPOD
The tripod can be difficult, but helps sharpness. Use when practical to do so.
Title: Re: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: arthedains on February 20, 2006, 10:54:46 PM
I heartily recommend the Minolta 100mm macro. It is a fantastic lens!

-Anil
Title: Re: What's the best Macro Technique?
Post by: gazraa on February 23, 2006, 05:53:47 PM
it is an open question and it does depend on what you are wanting to take pictures of.

Jewellery in a studio environment allows for a much more controlled approach. Chasing insects around the country side is the other end of the scale, you need to be able to work quickly.

Lighting is a major consideration as normal flashes might be blocked with the lense so that needs some thought.

As has been said, 100mm (or around that) lenses are the most versatile, but a 180mm will give you that extra distance between you and the subject.

Diopter screw on 'filters' can work quite well, but the more glass you add between the sensor and the subject the more you potentially reduce quality.

Extension tubes won't add glass, do a similar thing to a dedicated macro lens and aren't as expensive as a macro lens, but they add fiddliness.