Author Topic: Triggering flashes wirelessly: use any hotshoe flash to tigger any other flash!  (Read 33696 times)

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Offline vaughaag

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Didi,

The video is a bit long and winded but worth a look. He talks about triggering older flash's and support for older flash's with the Sony system.

d7d (aka Ronin, aka Shot by scott) posted the link a while back

http://thealphafactor.wordpress.com/2010/11/18/alpha-strobis-videos-part-1/

Rgds,
Dave
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Offline Stef.

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Didi it should work with the onboard flash as well. You need to turn red eye reduction of though. I use regularly the onboard flash on my A700 to trigger other flashes. I will give it a try later on with my old Minolta flashes and "report" back.
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Offline Stef.

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Didi- I just tried it out: I triggered successfully an old Minolta flash with slave cell with my onboard flash of the A700. Make sure the flash is NOT set to wireless but to "normal" as if you would put it onto the camera.
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Offline didispeed

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Hello,

just tried again, red eye off, and the only time it fires is when I set the pop up flash to manual in the menu, even with fill in flash or rear it doesn't fire when it needs to. I find that with my 56 it works everytime and like it should. Now I'll have to convince my wife to buy 2 more
Sony flashes or maybe a Minolta that has build in wireless.

Didi
Sony α900 | Sony α580 | Sony α700
Sony 16-80 CZ f3.5-4.5 | Sony 16-105 f3.5-4.5 | Sony 70-300G f4.5-5.6 | Sony 50mm f1.4 | Sony 85 f2.8 SAM | Minolta 24mm f2.8 RS | Sigma 10-20mm  f4-5.6 EX DC | Sigma 70mm f2.8 Macro EX DG | Sigma 24-60 f2.8 | Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 EX DG OS HSM| Sony HVL-F56AM

Offline Stef.

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Didi- but you DID attacj the slave cell to the Minolta flash and you have set the FLASH to manual? Well at least it works with the pop up flash set to manual. The intensity of the flash can always be cahnged by putting a stocking over it or a plastic bag, or bounce it off an umbrella.
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Offline BedotheCreak

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Re: Triggering flashes wirelessly
« Reply #35 on: June 02, 2011, 04:39:58 AM »
I used to do a lot of underwater photography using the Nikonos V Camera, and have 2 underwater strobes (Nikon SB102), and a Sunpak Marine Auto 3200. Guide numbers for both of them are 32 (m), both have diffusers which reduces the guide number to 22 (m). Wait for it, because there is a point here regarding this topic. Both of these strobe units have slave capability, and so . . . . could theoretically be triggered wirelessly from my Sony HVL-56AM flash unit on my A100

These strobe units have been packed in a box for a few years now unused (Sunpak is brand new!), but this would give them a new lease of life above water, as 'pseudo home studio' strobe units. Both of them are fairly powerful units, so could provide excellent background lighting. Easy to mount them on tripods for positioning.

I did read one of the posts about A100 pre-flash triggering wireless slaves incorrectly, but would this apply in using the HVL-56AM as the triggering unit? They are both fitted with syncro cables, but are fitted with Nikonos underwater connectors. Time to play around with the concept over the next weekend!

I know Stef uses cheap flash units at times in this way, and has mentioned before that the concept works.
 
Any thoughts, comments or ideas?
Sony A77 & Sony VG; Sony A100 & Dicain VG; Sony DSC-R1; Sony 16-50 F2.8 SSM; Sony 11-18; Sony 70-300G SSM; Tamron 90 F2.8 Macro; Minolta 100 F2.8 Soft Focus; Minolta 35 F2; Metz 15-MS1 Ring Flash; Sony HVL-56AM Flash; Manfrotto 475 Tripod; Sekonic L-358 Flash Meter

Offline fother

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I'd say that combination is likely to work, but the only way to be really certain is to try it!
Can't see how it could do any harm, and will probably give you a really flexible setup...

Look forward to seeing your findings! :)

Offline Stef.

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The only thing I can say is that I believe it will work. Please let us know the outcome.
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Offline BedotheCreak

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Stef,

What are the studio flash unit guide numbers typically?

Would my two strobe units be considered powerful at a guide number of 22 (metres)? Drops to 16 (metres) with the diffusers fitted. The Nikon SB102 has manual settings of 'Full' , 'Quarter' and 'Sixteenth' power. Sunpak has manual settings of 'Full' and 'Half' power only. This should be adequate control for most needs?

I guess by using them both in manual mode and triggering them as slaves they will provide decent background lighting? This is where my new Sekonic Flash Meter earns its keep?

I will be so pleased if this concept works, because these units were expensive and this will give them both a new lease of life.

I appreciate any advice?

Cheers

Dave
Sony A77 & Sony VG; Sony A100 & Dicain VG; Sony DSC-R1; Sony 16-50 F2.8 SSM; Sony 11-18; Sony 70-300G SSM; Tamron 90 F2.8 Macro; Minolta 100 F2.8 Soft Focus; Minolta 35 F2; Metz 15-MS1 Ring Flash; Sony HVL-56AM Flash; Manfrotto 475 Tripod; Sekonic L-358 Flash Meter

Offline Stef.

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Dave- I have numerous flash guns, from very cheap ones to most of the Sony ones, Metz and many more. And I use regularly a mix of them- without even checking guide numbers.

Guide numbers vary depending on the flash. Don't forget: f-number = GN/distance for ISO 100 (!)
Guide numbers are usually given for ISO 100.

Here are some points to consider:
(1) According to the inverse-square law: increasing ISO by a factor of four doubles your guide number.
(2) Changing the zoom setting on a flash will affect guide number and power as well.
(3) Distance to subject and aperture will influence the light that will hit the sensor

A lot can be found out by trial and error. If one of your flashes is to strong, then just move it further away from your subject or put a piece of white cloth in front of the flash (or in fact a cut off bottom of a plastic milk bottle works nicely) or bounce it from a white card (or colour if you want some strange effects...)

Good luck and have fun!
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Offline BedotheCreak

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Well folks!

It seems as though the underwater strobes seem to be a great success as 'pseudo studio lights'! The advice regarding the on-board flash was correct with respect to the pre-flash triggering the other slaves, and it is the case.

I have played around a little with the HVL-56AM, and using this on-camera appears to trigger the slave strobes fine. Of course having the new Sekonic Flash Meter to play with too is lovely and it's all technical at the moment! Nothing creative  . . . . . yet.

I actually went to try and buy a camera/ flash sync cable tonight. Most of the so called 'camera shops' here didn't even know what it was, let alone have one in stock. All was not lost though because the Sekonic has a non-cable flash capability, so I have been playing with that too!

So my first attempts at actually using this setup will be . . . . vegetables! They have nice colors, don't move (like people), and they can go back into the fridge after each 'modelling' session.

Once I get it all sorted out, I'll post some pictures of the lighting setup and the veggies of course.

Interesting fact: I can take my studio lights underwater! Hmm maybe a bit of an issue for the A100 though!

Wish me luck? Exciting times ahead!

Cheers

Sony A77 & Sony VG; Sony A100 & Dicain VG; Sony DSC-R1; Sony 16-50 F2.8 SSM; Sony 11-18; Sony 70-300G SSM; Tamron 90 F2.8 Macro; Minolta 100 F2.8 Soft Focus; Minolta 35 F2; Metz 15-MS1 Ring Flash; Sony HVL-56AM Flash; Manfrotto 475 Tripod; Sekonic L-358 Flash Meter

Offline fother

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Great to have the confirmation ! Good luck with your experiments :)

Offline Stef.

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Yes -am looking forward to some more feedback!
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